Are you getting unsightly white marks on your prints from the machine? Or are you finding that the colour is fading after acetone smoothing? Well this quick tip video is for you! All you need is a hot air gun to restore colour to your ABS printed parts.
You can now print any layer height and nozzle temperature you like on your UP! 3D Printer with FixUp3D. Thanks to the software hack developed by ‘Mr_x’ and ‘Forsaken’ over on the pp3dp Forums, you can intercept the UP! code and send new temperatures and layer heights, like 100um layers on the UP! Mini. Printing lower temperatures is a must for non UP! Branded ABS, which melts at a lower temp and which has traditionally melted too much, making removing rafts and support very hard.
Crowdfunding sites like Kickstarter are hugely popular platforms for launching new tech projects, but they can carry serious risks if you choose to support them. In this video I’ll explain why some Tech Crowdfunding Projects can fail, and how to identify better projects from the dodgy ones.
I’ve been told that FDM printers work in any orientation… Let’s find out! I printed 3 spheres in regular, side and upside down orientation to see if it had any effect, good or bad, on the print quality. Yes, I know regular SLA and DLP printers work upside down, but that’s different!
I got this figurine printed from Shapeways a few years ago, here’s how it looks now! Something to keep in mind when making SLS parts intended to be used for a long time.
Let’s face it, you never have the colour you want on hand for a 3D Print… Well what if it was as easy as a short trip to your local hardware store?! This simple trick results in coloured 3D Prints with pigment through the entire print, not just on the surface like a coat of paint would be. It’s really easy to do and works great. You can also creatively combine colours for really artistic effects. Give it a shot!
Let’s face it – 3D Printing on a hobby level is FAR from flawless… Working next to 3D Printers on a Daily basis, you begin to pick up on certain sounds occurring when something goes wrong – here’s a few of them, so you know what to listen out for next time you’re kicking off a 12 hr print!
In this tutorial I’ll show you all you need to extract weapons, characters and more from Chivalry: Medieval Warfare, or any other game based on the Unreal Engine, and create them physically using 3D Printing. Shout out if you want me to do a Rigging and Posing tutorial next for all those T pose models. 😉
Rip, Pose and Print your entire game character, with Chivmas hat! This is part 1 of 4 of an Advanced tutorial for ripping and 3D printing files from Chivalry Medieval Warfare.
Learn how to pose and 3D print characters using in game animations in part 2 of the Chivmas Advanced 3D Printing Tutorial series!
In this tutorial I’ll show you how to rip any game asset and 3D Print it from Fallout 3 or NV. It’s easy to learn and a great way to get a physical copy of your favourite fallout weapon! The parts were then 3D Printed on the Wanhao Duplicator i3 in Clear and Grey PLA filament. Total print time was about 3 days on and off, around 32 hrs total
In this video we’ll be assembling a Deathclaw from Fallout 4 and finishing with XTC-3D, a two part resin designed to smooth over 3D Printing Lines!
As it is the last Video of 2015, we’ll do something special – and turn the Mini Nuke from Fallout 4 into an awesome planted pot made from 3D Fuel’s Algae PLA!
In this quick video I’ll show you how I use the face transform tool in meshmixer to modify existing mesh data. It’s not perfect, but might get you out of trouble one day! Ways I use this tool: – Alter the width of a feature – Make text higher for more definition – Make indents deeper for more definition – Add thickness to a base or layer for more strength